Gennadiy Poryev
2023-Oct-28 15:04 UTC
[Nut-upsuser] My Back-UPS RS 1000 went haywire, any ideas?
Hi, I am sorry for possible offtopic as this question is not quite NUT-related but I cannot imagine any other place with people of such deep and intimate knowledge of UPS behavior. One day all of a sudden my APC Back-UPS RS 1000 refused to go online (green led) even though mains was connected. I used upsc to see what is going on, and ups.status was "OB DISCHRG", battery.charge was slowly decreasing and input looked like this input.sensitivity: medium input.transfer.high: 264 input.transfer.low: 194 input.voltage: 182.0 input.voltage.nominal: 230 I took an external voltmeter and made sure that actual input voltage is around 223 V and is not changing. However, each successive run of upsc indicated drastically different "input.voltage", arbitrarily jumping from 160 V to 280 V. Besides this, no other values seemed abnormal. Is this something that can be fixed in-house? Or something widely known about this particular model and/or vendor? I'm puzzled. Please, advice. Sorry for the offtopic once again. -------------- next part -------------- battery.charge: 49 battery.charge.low: 10 battery.charge.warning: 50 battery.date: 2001/09/25 battery.mfr.date: 2007/07/20 battery.runtime: 6339 battery.runtime.low: 120 battery.type: PbAc battery.voltage: 24.9 battery.voltage.nominal: 24.0 device.mfr: American Power Conversion device.model: Back-UPS RS 1000 device.serial: 8B0729R16742 device.type: ups driver.name: usbhid-ups driver.parameter.pollfreq: 1 driver.parameter.pollinterval: 1 driver.parameter.port: auto driver.parameter.synchronous: auto driver.version: 2.8.0 driver.version.data: APC HID 0.98 driver.version.internal: 0.47 driver.version.usb: libusb-1.0.26 (API: 0x1000109) input.sensitivity: medium input.transfer.high: 264 input.transfer.low: 194 input.voltage: 182.0 input.voltage.nominal: 230 ups.beeper.status: disabled ups.delay.shutdown: 20 ups.firmware: 7.g9a.I ups.firmware.aux: g9a ups.load: 1 ups.mfr: American Power Conversion ups.mfr.date: 2007/07/20 ups.model: Back-UPS RS 1000 ups.productid: 0002 ups.realpower.nominal: 600 ups.serial: 8B0729R16742 ups.status: OB DISCHRG ups.test.result: No test initiated ups.timer.reboot: 0 ups.timer.shutdown: -1 ups.vendorid: 051d
Jim Klimov
2023-Oct-28 15:43 UTC
[Nut-upsuser] My Back-UPS RS 1000 went haywire, any ideas?
Is the battery old? PbAc ones usually last for 2-3 years and then degrade. Should be a field-replaceable part. Some 20 years ago I had an APC BackUPS become a glorified power strip every few years, so when the wall power disappeared - load went down immediately. It was also beeping about battery replacement (but in the closet, was not often noticed quickly). This is also a way for you to check if the situation is something like that - pull the cable and see if it holds up for any non-trivial time ;) Otherwise, maybe electronics went bad over time (dried capacitors etc.) so the controller and its sensors are in fact going haywire. This might also be replaceable, if you're good with soldering (or can find/hire someone who is) or if warranty repair is still an option. Finally, the UPS might partake in self-calibration, where it deliberately discharges itself to check how long the battery holds up your load (maybe the charge-level cycle also lets it keep the internal chemistry healthier). Usually it powers itself back up from mains in the nick of time before it would otherwise shutdown, if it guessed the timing correctly (e.g. battery did not age too poorly since last test, and the load did not change too much). Hope this helps, Jim Klimov On Sat, Oct 28, 2023 at 5:28?PM Gennadiy Poryev via Nut-upsuser < nut-upsuser at alioth-lists.debian.net> wrote:> Hi, > > I am sorry for possible offtopic as this question is not quite > NUT-related but I cannot imagine any other place with people of such > deep and intimate knowledge of UPS behavior. > > One day all of a sudden my APC Back-UPS RS 1000 refused to go online > (green led) even though mains was connected. I used upsc to see what is > going on, and ups.status was "OB DISCHRG", battery.charge was slowly > decreasing and input looked like this > > input.sensitivity: medium > input.transfer.high: 264 > input.transfer.low: 194 > input.voltage: 182.0 > input.voltage.nominal: 230 > > I took an external voltmeter and made sure that actual input voltage is > around 223 V and is not changing. However, each successive run of upsc > indicated drastically different "input.voltage", arbitrarily jumping > from 160 V to 280 V. Besides this, no other values seemed abnormal. > > Is this something that can be fixed in-house? Or something widely known > about this particular model and/or vendor? I'm puzzled. Please, advice. > Sorry for the offtopic once again. > _______________________________________________ > Nut-upsuser mailing list > Nut-upsuser at alioth-lists.debian.net > https://alioth-lists.debian.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/nut-upsuser >-------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://alioth-lists.debian.net/pipermail/nut-upsuser/attachments/20231028/385aace7/attachment.htm>
Greg Troxel
2023-Oct-28 23:09 UTC
[Nut-upsuser] My Back-UPS RS 1000 went haywire, any ideas?
Gennadiy Poryev via Nut-upsuser <nut-upsuser at alioth-lists.debian.net> writes:> I took an external voltmeter and made sure that actual input voltage > is around 223 V and is not changing. However, each successive run of > upsc indicated drastically different "input.voltage", arbitrarily > jumping from 160 V to 280 V. Besides this, no other values seemed > abnormal. > > Is this something that can be fixed in-house? Or something widely > known about this particular model and/or vendor? I'm puzzled. Please, > advice. Sorry for the offtopic once again.I would guess one of Something is flaky and the power is not as good as it seems, or the wiring from power strip where you are measursing to UPS input is off. I would definitely remove and re-seat everything you can. The circuitry that senses voltage is off. The neutral is open and then all bets are off. Did you measure hot to neutral, hot to ground, neutral to ground? You say 230 and I'm guessing this is in a place with 230V outlets. (In the US we have 125V with neutral and 250V phase to 180-out-of-phase phase, for "single phase" service.) So actually, check the neutral inside the equipment. Power it all down and unplug and be super careful as UPS devices have power inside when they are off and unplugged.